Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America wins the five-day workweek for U.S. garment workers

Story: 1929 C.E.  |  Last updated: January 1, 1929

In 1929 C.E., a union of mostly immigrant garment workers in the United States achieved something no labor organization had managed before: a binding, industry-wide agreement that working people would labor five days a week — not six. The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America didn’t just win better hours for its members. It cracked open a door that would eventually swing wide for working people across the industrialized world.

Key findings

• Five-day workweek: The ACWA became the first union in the world to win a formal five-day, 40-hour workweek agreement from employers in the men’s clothing industry — a milestone in U.S. labor history reached in 1929 C.E.
• Sidney Hillman: The union’s founding president led the ACWA for its first three decades, building a model of “social unionism” that combined contract negotiation with cooperative housing, unemployment insurance, and worker-owned banking through Amalgamated Bank.
• Immigrant labor power: The ACWA’s membership was overwhelmingly made up of Jewish, Italian, Lithuanian, and other immigrant workers — communities whose organizing power had long been minimized by mainstream AFL unions before they built their own.

A union born from revolt

The ACWA didn’t emerge from a boardroom or a legislation session. It was born in 1914 C.E. from a rebellion — two-thirds of the United Garment Workers’ membership, fed up with conservative AFL leadership that mistrusted their socialist loyalties, walked out and formed their own organization.

Many of these workers had come from Eastern Europe carrying both fresh memories of czarist repression and well-developed political philosophies forged under it. They brought those ideas into the garment shops of New York, Chicago, Baltimore, and Rochester, and they built a union that reflected them.

By 1920 C.E., the ACWA had contracts with 85 percent of men’s clothing manufacturers and had already driven the standard workweek down to 44 hours. The five-day week, won in 1929 C.E., was the next step — and the boldest one.

What made the five-day workweek possible

The victory didn’t happen in a vacuum. Sidney Hillman had spent years building a relationship with employers based on what he called “constructive cooperation” — a philosophy that saw unions as partners in industrial efficiency, not just adversaries at the bargaining table. He believed that a more stable, better-rested workforce benefited everyone in the supply chain.

That approach let the ACWA negotiate from a position of credibility. When the union argued that a five-day week would reduce fatigue, improve quality, and stabilize the industry, some manufacturers listened — especially those, like Hart Schaffner and Marx in Chicago, that had already learned that labor peace was good for business.

The ACWA also built leverage through what it called social unionism — offering members cooperative housing, unemployment benefits, and banking services at a time when none of those protections existed at the federal level. A union that took care of its members between contracts was a union its members would fight for.

Why this moment echoes forward

The ACWA’s five-day workweek win arrived a full decade before the U.S. federal government made 40 hours the national standard under the Fair Labor Standards Act of 1938 C.E. The union’s contract proved the concept — and gave reformers in Washington evidence that the sky wouldn’t fall if Americans worked less.

Henry Ford had famously adopted a five-day week at his plants in 1926 C.E., partly to stimulate consumer spending among his own workers. But Ford’s decision was a unilateral management choice. The ACWA’s achievement was different: workers themselves, organized and unified, demanded the change — and won it through collective bargaining.

That distinction matters. It established a precedent that working people had a legitimate voice in determining the conditions of their own labor, not just wages but the fundamental structure of the workweek itself.

The ACWA went on to help found the Congress of Industrial Organizations in the 1930s C.E., which organized millions of industrial workers who had been excluded from AFL craft unions. The union continued to evolve, eventually merging into what is now UNITE HERE, which still represents workers in garment, hospitality, and related industries today.

Lasting impact

The five-day workweek is now so embedded in working life across the industrialized world that it is easy to forget it was ever a radical demand. It wasn’t. Before unions like the ACWA pushed for it, six-day weeks — and in many industries, seven — were standard. The physical toll on workers was enormous, particularly in trades like garment manufacturing that combined long hours with repetitive motion and poor ventilation.

The ACWA’s win helped establish a broader cultural norm: that rest was not a luxury but a right. That norm influenced labor law not only in the United States but in countries watching American labor politics closely in the 1930s C.E. and beyond.

Today, conversations about four-day workweeks — now being piloted in the U.K., Iceland, Japan, and elsewhere — are direct descendants of exactly this kind of argument. Workers and researchers are making the same case Hillman made in 1929 C.E.: that fewer hours, structured well, benefit workers and employers alike.

Blindspots and limits

The ACWA’s model of “constructive cooperation” with employers had a real cost: it sometimes meant accepting the industry’s structure rather than challenging it, and Hillman’s willingness to use strongarm tactics against Communist Party opponents within the union — and his tolerance of gangster infiltration in some locals — cast a shadow over the union’s otherwise progressive record. The five-day workweek agreement also applied to organized workers in the men’s clothing industry specifically; millions of workers in agriculture, domestic service, and other sectors — disproportionately Black workers and women — remained excluded from these gains for decades.

Read more

For more on this story, see: Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America — Wikipedia

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